Bad Wedding, Fuel Rail and Air slide valve hole cover

I have been busy cutting the fuel rails, and tapping them at the ends for 3/8NPT. So far all 4 are done, and the next step is to actually drill the holes for the injectors. I ordered a 14mm drill bit, and a 3/4 so that I could make all 3 cuts. The plan is to drill the first bit with the 3/8th drill bit all the way to the center, and then use the 14mm (correct size for Fuel Injectors) to make about a 1/2" deep cut where the injector actually sits in, and the 3/4" is to chanfer the angle at the start of the hole, so that the fuel injector seal is not torn open. I also need to hone and polish with my dremel the inside so that it is nice and smooth. Final touch will be to paint it in a nice satin black finish to contrast against the silver intake. Will look neat.
This weekend though was taken up going to a wedding, but I will start with the new cabling on Sunday. It should not take too long, as I have all the parts of where the cables go scoped out, and just need to run the cable, install the relay board in a place that will not get too wet under the hood, and then start the long process of figuring out what goes where. I am also going to run new power cables to the front lights so that I can relay them, and avoid overloading the 30 year old cabling, and switches.
My main concern right now is getting the exact length in between injectors so that they seal perfectly, and do not have fuel leaks, as that generally is a bad thing. I have also backordered 2 m14X1.5 female to AN6 male adaptors that will replace the lines coming in from the fuel pump right behind the booster, so no need to cut the original hoses and clamp them. It think that it is a far neater, and safer solution overall, and safety needs to be first.
The fuel system itself is designed with 300PSI hoses, connectors, and gaskets, even though the fuel pump will only get to 125 max, and is used to running at 75 for the CIS system.
As what creates the pressure on the system is the fuel pressure regulator, and the mustang 19LB injectors run at 37PSI, the fuel pressure regulator will be set at 37 PSI. When designing an FI system, always remember to put the fuel pressure regulator after all the injectors, in the return line, as this way, you will get the correct pressure before it. The way you get pressure in a hydraulic system is through blockage, and that is what a FPR does... It blocks the flow of gasoline UP to the pressure you set it. You really do not care about the pressure after the FPR, and putting multiple FPR's is just a recipe for a very hard to tune car as you have built up the pressure before the injectors. Some racing applications, and nitrous might use 2 or even 3 pressure regulators depending on the different needs, but that is way past what I intend to do with this car... I just want a nice car for a pleasant sunday drive, and if I get passed by a vespa, so be it.

Weekend Work.

Over the weekend in what little time I had, I managed to put the intake into the car. If the removal was not altogether that difficult, the removal, was pretty much the same. In general terms you want to put in the intake with the front radiator hose first. I replaced the hose, and the hose clamps while I was in there, as I do not want to touch this intake in a long time. The intake gaskets are also fairly straight forward, and are keyed so that they stay in place.

After the intake was in, I put in all the throttle linkage, the transmission vacuum, and the transmission linkage, and sealed the ports that used to be used for the two vacuum switches at the front passenger side of the intake manifold. I still have the port for the mechanical Air injection system to plug, but I am going to use a 1/2" think piece of aluminum there. It should be thick enough to hold the refrigerant pressure.

I took this picture from the driver's side of the car. You can see the repainted throttle linkage parts, the new bolts, and the "reconditioned" CIS housing. I chose to keep the housing, as I want to keep the gigantic air cleaner that goes on top of it. You can also see the hole that the secondary air injection valve used, and how it heats up. Mine was so stuck, that it wouldn't budege, even after repeated soaking in liquid wrench, followed by a freezing/boiling routine.

This picture shows the Air temp sensor on the CIS housing, as well, as the coolant level temperature sensor on the fron right of the intake manifold. The 2 bolts that seal what used to be the vacuum switches at the front left of the intake manifold are m10-1.0 metric bolts. I have a nice piece of aluminum stock that I will shape to fit in the hole left by the air valve at the front of the intake. I also chose to keep the air distributor, and will be using some hoses to connect them to the new Air valve that you can see in the bracket that used to hold the warm up governor. I still have some more work to do in the car after all is said and done, specially with the hydraulic pump, and the brake booster. Those will also be taken out, cleaned, and painted.

This picture is taken from the passenger's side. Here you can see the IAC on the side of the housing, how it does not interfere with the throttle linkage, and yet it will fit under the air cleaner housing. I will take out the now superfluos vacuum switches in the firewall to make room for the fuel pressure regulator. Notice the old safety cutoff cable that used to go to the top of the CIS housing. I am going to take that out, and clean up the cabling a bit. I never liked the solution to the cutoff, as if the car flipped, the linkage would stay open, and the cutoff never kicked in.

Pictures

I have taken some pictures of the work so far. I will do some work today before the fireworks, and have it posted Monday.

This is the engine block, after 2 days of cleaning, scraping, taking out a small nest, and finally finishing with heat resistant paint. Only thing is that it needs about 7 days to fully cure. I also covered the intake mating surfaces on the heads to prevent paint from getting into the valves, as that would generally be a bad thing.

This is the finished CIS housing. I have taken off all moving parts, drilled a hole on the side for the IAT, and made sure that I would be able to put the air cleaner housing on with the connectors. I also stripped it , and painted it with a coat of Eastwood detail gray. I replaced the bolts with yellow zinc plated bolts that I got from Wurth USA. They do look very good.

This is another view of the CIS housing showing the blocked off fuel distributor hole, and all innards removed. You can also see the IAT on the right side of the housing. I drilled and tapped it there after considering other alternate sections, but here I will be able to run the cables in an easy fashion, as I can bundle them with the Idle control valve, and the passenger side injectors.









This is the finished intake manifold seen from the rear (firewall side) I spent about 20 hours cleaning the intake manifold, only to find that the underlying aluminium cast was all spotted and looked terrible. In comes Eastwood, it is a bit brighter than cast aluminum, but it does look good. I also took the accelerator linkage and took it all apart, cleaned, sanded the 2 rods that make it all work, oiled, and reassembled it. It now looks much better, and is nice and smooth. Before it took quite a bit of strength to move it. I also cleaned the lower intake manifold, although I did not paint it.




This is a better look of the linkage. I reused all the parts that came with it, and it is a credit to MB engineering that after 30 years of use, and abuse, it only needed a quick shot of Eastwood black paint, and some minor sanding. The parts still looked almost like new, and the only change is the color, as the original was the MB golden cad, that is very difficult, and expensive to replicate today.... Anyway the black is easy to refinish, or even to strip. Notice also the intake manifold color. This section was the worst, as it was heavily stained, and no matter what I tried, I could not get the stains out... Even tried a mild acid.





This is a Idle control Housing that DIY Autotune sells. I also bought a 1992 Idle control valve for a Jeep 4.0 liter engine. I reused the bracket where the Warm Up Governor. As this is part of the CIS system, it will no longer be needed. The bolts on the left side of the housing were drilled and taped to M6 specs, as there is enough metal there not to interfere, or puncture the rest of the housing. Originally it comes with holes in the back of the housing, but due to the location, it would have been inconvenient. Now what I need to do is to find the right combination of hoses in between the CIS housing and the Idle control housing, and from the Idle control housing to the Air distributor (that I am going to keep, and just block off the port for the cold start injector).



In this pic, you can see the new lower intake manifold gaskets, as well as the cleaned ports for the secondary air injection, and the vacuum that is used by the transmission to shift. These were all blocked off by a layer of caked black goo, coming from the EGR that was stuck in open. Most of the time spent was cleaning the intake ports as they had about 3/4" of caked on soot... Making them much smaller, and blocking off all possible vacuum ports. Also when working with different kinds of metal, remember to put anti-seize on your bolts if you ever want to take them out without major problems.